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How To: Installing SKS Longboard Fenders to Your Volagi Liscio

Initially, when I set out to get a few different fenders to test fit to a Volagi Liscio, I chose the SKS Longboards as what I thought would be a sure thing. I’ve installed plenty of SKS fenders in the past with very few issues, and while the SKS Longboards don’t require any substantial modification to fit the Liscio, they are not the easiest to install.

One thing is for sure though, if you are looking for the ultimate spray protection, this is it. If you’re ok with only running 25mm tires, that is.

Get the details after the break.

While some companies tend to short you on hardware, SKS does a pretty good job making sure you have most of the nuts and bolts that you will need.

In a similar fashion to the Civia flat fender install, really the only fender that offers any difficulty is the front. The rear goes on without a hitch, bolting up like any fender would .

The only thing to remember is to use washers under the rear stays, to help protect the clear coat and carbon from the stays pressing up against them.

Also, if you choose to use a regular bolt and nut on the rear brake bridge mount, a washer under the bolt head will help here as well. As with all fenders on the Liscio, when you tighten the brake bridge mount, make sure the fender is pushed up against the bridge as much as possible in order to give you the most tire clearance. You will need it with the Longboards, they fit 25mm tire with enough clearance, but just barely. These will not work with 28mm tires.

Last but not least, when attaching the chainstay mounting bolt, make sure to use the included metal washer plate so you don’t crack the fender when you tighten it down.

As mentioned, unlike the rear, the front fender requires a bit more finesse in order for it to clear 25mm tires on the Liscio. One of the main points of contention is the riveted mount at the fork arch. In order for the fender to clear the tire, the fender itself has to be pushed up as far as possible against the inside of the fork arch.

However, there are two things standing in your way to make this happen. First, the actual slot in the mounting tab doesn’t dip low enough to mount it properly. In order for it to work, you need to simply lengthen the slot towards the bottom or towards the fender. The tab is made out of hardened steel, so you will need a good rat tail file, Dremel tool with a grinding or cutting tool (I used Dremel’s 194 high speed cutter), or some other method of cutting, shaving, or filing metal. It doesn’t take much material removal for it to work, just a few millimeters, but every millimeter counts.

Once the slot is cut and the fender is as high as it can physically go, depending on your tire you may or may not have to perform this next step. The combination of bike and tires I was working on at the time, meant that even with the modification to the slot, the fender was still rubbing slightly on the tire behind the fork. Looking at how the fender was sitting underneath the fork, it was clear that it didn’t follow the profile of the fork, rather it touched at the front and dipped down towards the back. The reason? The mounting tab itself has a pretty shallow radius bend and it isn’t quite at a 90 degree angle. Fortunately, if you have access to a vice or get creative with pliers or vice grips, this is fairly easy to remedy.

With the mounting tab clamped into a vice, it is possible to change the angle of the tab in relation to the fender by simply pushing on it towards the back of the fender. In order to make the radius of the bend as tight as possible, I used a large punch placed on the rivets on the underside of the fender. With it still clamped by the mounting tab, striking the punch with a hammer forced the bend to tighten up, allowing the fender to be as close as possible to the inside of the fork arch.

The last bit of modification for the front fenders is really more of an improvement, than a necessity. Due to the combination of the placement of the fender mounts  on the Liscio, the plastic breakaway tabs on the SKS fenders, and the angle of the mounting struts form the fender to the fork mount, the struts are put under a lot of stress from bending. A simple fix for the matter is to slightly bend each strut about an inch behind each fork mount, just enough to relieve the stress. Basically, you are expanding the V shape of the strut, allowing it to fit more naturally to the fork. To accomplish this simply use an adjustable wrench to hold where you want the bend, and then use your hand to bend the strut. It’s best to do this with the fender off of the bike, so you aren’t subjecting the mounting holes to undue stress.

While it may seem like a good amount of work, it goes by fairly quickly, resulting in some serious coverage from road spray. Is it worth it? If you’re not looking for the option of running 28mm tires, and you want the most protection fenders can offer, the SKS Longboards are a safe bet.

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